Fastrack: Sub-cultural Groupings

The term ‘Sub-culture’ by definition is “a meaning of systems, modes of expression or life styles developed by groups in subordinate structural positions in response to dominant meaning systems, and which reflect their attempt to solve structural contradictions rising from the wider societal context.” Michael Brake (1985).

In other words sub-cultures are distinct groupings of people who share the same attitudes, understandings and social norms. Both Collections by Kyra-Moon and Kim Gush (AFI Fastrack 2012 finalists) reference some form of sub-cultural element and this is evident in the collections’ aesthetics and morality. The term aesthetics in this context refers to a distinct style and taste portrayed in the clothes’ physical appearance and creativity, while the morality highlights the importance of liberation from common restraints in pursuit of sheer satisfaction. The words ‘fashion’ and ‘poverty’ are often used together now more than ever in Africa, especially with the formation on the Congolese Grand Sapeurs and the South African teen sub-culture Izikhotani.

Figure 3.1 : Congolese Grand Sapeurs, The Original African Bling Kings

Figure 3.2 : Izikhotane Crew at Thokoza Park, Soweto

Contrary to Le Grand Sapeurs and the Izikhotani our local DIY fashion heroes from Soweto, The Smartees, exist as a result of the inability to afford luxury fashion brands. The Smartees design signature is made up of European Colonialism and traditional African wear. Like Kyra-Moon’s collection references many different cultural backgrounds. The Durban University of Technology fashion design student presented a youthful interpretation of what one could refer to as local Harajuku Girls.

Figure 3.3

Figure 3.4

Figure1: Kyra-Moon’s collection references crochet. Although no one is certain where its’ history began, it dates back before the 1800s, Pennie Packard (date unknown). The term “brogue” originated in the late 16^th century and the brogue shoes originate from Scotland and Ireland. Stockings date back from the Baroque and Rococo eras where women in the 18^th century wore stockings imitating le marquis de Pompadour’s fashion sense. The Smartees describe their style as “Playful, spontaneous, edgy, colorful, and vintage-meets-new". Their looks are made up of clothes from other decades worn by their parents and grandparents, inspired by European clothing and African wear.

The phenomenon of sub-cultural groupings has driven the fashion industry for many decades and thus plays a major role in the social dimensions of our society. Kim Gush’s range is inspired by sci-fi post-apocalyptic–ninja, sometimes referred to as Armageddon. This concept encompasses a fiction where a civilization is set free after worldwide conflict or destruction. This concept also depicts the end of the world as a result of great natural disasters.