History of the Gothic Subculture

Figure 8.1 : Bauhaus new and final Album

In an article by Alicia Porter Smith on www.gothicsubculture.com, she mentions that the origin of the Goth subculture "...is usually placed in 1979 when Bauhaus released the song "Bela Lugosi's Dead."  Going on to note that "The band originally intended the song to be tongue-in-cheek; however, many young fans latched onto this mysterious, eerie sound as inspiration for the budding gothic subculture."

Bela Lugosi's Dead: A song released in 1979 on the Small Wonder label by the band Bauhaus. The lyrics are:

White on white
translucent black capes
back on the rack.
Bela Lugosi's dead.
The bats have left the bell tower,
the victims have been bled,
red velvet lines the black box.

Bela Lugosi's dead.
Undead Undead Undead.

The virginal brides
file past his tomb,
strewn with time's dead flowers,
bereft in deathly bloom,
alone in a darkened room
the count.

Bela Lugosi's dead.
Undead Undead Undead.

Oh Bela, Bela's undead.

She goes on to describe the three generations of Goths, ending of with : 

"First and second generation Goths look suspiciously upon the new generation, doubting their authenticity and disliking the exposure they give to a subculture which would prefer to remain underground. The new generation is not presently well received by their elders, but time may prove otherwise. It would be difficult to predict what the future holds for the Gothic movement. After over 20 years, it continues to change, grow, mutate and adapt, making it one of the longest surviving youth subcultures in existence." 

Michiel van Staden

Emperor Qin's Terracotta Army

 Figure 7.1 : The 1974 discovery of buried vaults at Xi'an filled with thousands of terra cotta warriors stunned the world.

According to an article on archaeology.about.com, the 'Chinese Terracotta Army', as they have become known, is an army of unique statues created out of terracotta clay, which was discovered in 1974.  Soon after taking the thrown in the year 247 BC, ruling over a newly united China, after a period of fierce power struggles, Qin Shihuang ("First Emperor of Qin"), as he renamed himself, ordered the construction of his own tomb, reportedly as a representation of his control over the resources from the area, together with an attempt to continue this into the afterlife.


Within the same article it is mentioned that it is evident that the statues were painted in vivid colors, although most of the paint has gone.  This thus indicates that the black materials used by Kim Gush in her fastrack collection, was of her own creation, through influence from other sources.  The very dark colors which have probably become the key message that has generally been taken from the collection, adding to the Gothic interpretations, thus seems to almost cloud what she lists as her main influence.


Michiel van Staden

Thoughts from the Industry

Bronwyn Day, Fashion Director GLAMOUR Magazine:

'Young talented fashion designers are extremely influencial to the arts and cultural landscape of South Africa.

Fashion design as an art form becomes a mini cult medium through which designers can develop a signature aesthetic and gather a consumer following.

This essentially leads them to partnering with retailers/shop owners as well as exposure in magazines, and this in turn feeds the economic machine of the developing brand/business.

The fashion arena has now branched out into online territory, which has widened the net for young designer exposure through fashion blogs and websites.

Financial restraints are one of the biggest factors when looking at young talent on a global scale.However, slowly but surely smaller independent labels in SA are branching out into the overseas market by means of an ever growing Africa and SA Fashion Weeks.

This should therefore not deter the young designer, but rather make them hungrier and more determined to get more international exposure for their developing brands.

At the end of the day, a talented and focussed designer should keep their eye on the ball. Streamline the brand with each new collection, get the exposure in print and online, and manage the finance side of things in order to develop and establish regular customers.'

Palesa Selebogo

Fast Track Designers

Figure 6.1 : Hugo Fleur

Figure 6.2 : Kim Gush

Kim Gush (1 of the winners) and Hugo Fleur (finalist) were among the Foschini fastrack designers at the Mercedes Benz fashion week. These designers need fewer introductions to the new burst talent in the fashion industry. 

AFI described Kim Gush style as,” combines her training in film and fashion with her passion for ancient histories to create stories of the untold. She explores both the traditional and modern in her construction meshing old and new worlds into her own hybrid creations”. Kim Gush is more of telling the untold secrets of the ancient and creating them in a more costume manner than of a fashion related sense. With Hugo Fleur being more the opposite of what Gush does, Nicola Cooper (LISOF lecturer) described Hugo’s collection as one that resembles Alexander Mc Queen. Both collections draw the same inspiration looks but are executed in two different ways.

“Structural difference between costume and fashion with regard to time- stability and immutability of costume as opposed to giddiness of fashion and metaphorical space- a normal versus a topsy-turvy world (Lotman 1993).

Figure 6.3 : Hugo Fleur  Mercedes Benz fashion week Collection

Figure 6.4 : Kim Gush Divine Rule Collection

Nonti Mtshweni

Kyra Moon- Halfpenny Collection

Interview - BY Londiwe Mbhele, Tuesday, 20 Mar 2012

What inspires you?

Zulu people, mother nature, New York City, Harajuku Girls

How did you find the AFI Fastrack experience?

The AFI experience was, motivating. It was great to see the different reactions I got from my   collection. This will help me going forward when designing a future collection. Meeting the people I did also reminded me why I have chosen fashion as my career, I walked away very inspired.

What have you learnt from this experience?

It teaches you to be very organised and very professional. When putting garments together (sowing them) being neat and paying attention to detail is very important as well as treating your garments like prized possessions. Lastly believing in yourself and going with the creative magic that flows through you when designing a collection.

And where do you see yourself in 5 years?

The future. One step at a time, I have goals and aspirations, that only me my dear friends and mentors know about.

(L. Mbhele; March 2012)

Kyra Moon’s Collection - featured at SAFW in Johannesburg.

Autumn/Winter 2012

Figure 5.1 : Organic prints

Figure 5.2 : Harajuku

Figure 5.3 : Crochet

Figure 5.4 : Playfulness

 

Figure 5.5 : Disney (Hello Kitty)

(WGSN- Kyra Moon A/W; 2012)

Characteristics of Kyra Moon’ collection- Organic prints(References modern and simplicity), Crochet(References Kyra’s historical background and personal interests), Hello Kitty(References Disney and playfulness), New York City(References travel) and Blanket(References culture).

Kyra Moon draws inspiration through photographic references                                                                   

 (URL- www.afisa.co.za; February 2012 ).

Kyra’s Inspiration

·        Mother Nature –

(Also referred to Mother Earth)

Mother Nature ; “is a common personification of nature that focuses on the life-giving and nurturing aspects of nature by embodying it in the form of the mother”

(FOLLOW LINK- Wikimedia Foundation, Inc; March 2012 )

·       Harajuku Girls –

(First hired to perform in 2004)

The Harajuku Girls are four young Japanese American back up dancers. They appeared  in stage shows and  music videos of  Gwen Stefani

The names of  The Harajuku Girls are Maya Chino ("Love"), Jennifer Kita ("Angel"),  Rino Nakasone-Razalan ("Music") and Mayuko Kitayama ("Baby").

The Harajuku style is combination of Gothic subculture style and a playful  Disney theme.

Figure 5.6 : J. Campbell; 2004

Figure 5.7 : Unknown photographer; 2010

Figure 5.8 : Unknown photographer; 2010

·       New York City

Figure 5.9 : S. Edelbroich; 2010)

·       Zulu & Basotho

Kyra references the blankets that the Basotho culture are known for and the vibrant colours that the Zulu culture are known for.

Figure 5.10 : Basotho (J. Hrusa; February 2011)

Figure 5.11 : Basotho )Unknown photographer; 2011)

Figure 5.12 : Zulu (D. Cuthbert; 2007)

Megan Schoeman

Kyra Moon- Halfpenny

Figure 4.1 : Kyra Moon-Halfpenny

Background & Achievements

Kyra Moon Halfpenny born on the 14th July 1987. Halfpenny grew up an ordinary girl. Since she dedicated her life to her studies and art her life was unexpectedly changed by extraordinary opportunities. Kyra Moon has become one of the most creative and innovative South African  designers since her work was seen on the ramp of SAFW(South African Fashion Week) in Johannesburg. Today this 25 year old fashion designer has achieved so much already by working hard and being exceptional. 

This upcoming South African fashion designer graduated from the DUT (Durban University of Technology), (N. Hlefane; April 2012). Kyra’s work was recognized and chosen above the work her fellow students. Her dedication to her studies and loyalty to her personal interests was the reason that the great opportunities was offered to this unique fashion student. In a very brief period the doorway to her bright future was opened with a tremendous bang.

Kyra Moon was one of 12 designers who was selected to showcase their creations as part of the Fast Track program in African Fashion International (AFI). This program aims to launch the careers of young fashion graduates(M. Monnakgotla; March 2012).

Halfpenny was one of four finalist in this program. Each student was awarded 10 000 by AFI and KZN Fashion Council), (N. Hlefane; April 2012).

This talented fashion designer was also awarded with Winner of the Most Innovative Collection at D.U.T’s Final Year Fashion Show. She was also a finalist in the NWJ Bridal Fair and also semi-finalist in the Vodacom Durban July Young Designer category(N. Hlefane; April 2012).

 

            “In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different”                                   – Coco Chanel

In my opinion this remarkable upcoming fashion designer truly is irreplaceable. Kyra Moon is the definition of different. Hopefully we will see Kyra’s work on INTERNATIONAL runways in the future.

Megan Schoeman

Sub-cultural Groupings

The term ‘Sub-culture’ by definition is “a meaning of systems, modes of expression or life styles developed by groups in subordinate structural positions in response to dominant meaning systems, and which reflect their attempt to solve structural contradictions rising from the wider societal context.” Michael Brake (1985).

In other words sub-cultures are distinct groupings of people who share the same attitudes, understandings and social norms. Both Collections by Kyra-Moon and Kim Gush (AFI Fastrack 2012 finalists) reference some form of sub-cultural element and this is evident in the collections’ aesthetics and morality. The term aesthetics in this context refers to a distinct style and taste portrayed in the clothes’ physical appearance and creativity, while the morality highlights the importance of liberation from common restraints in pursuit of sheer satisfaction. The words ‘fashion’ and ‘poverty’ are often used together now more than ever in Africa, especially with the formation on the Congolese Grand Sapeurs and the South African teen sub-culture Izikhotani.

Figure 3.1 : Congolese Grand Sapeurs, The Original African Bling Kings

Figure 3.2 : Izikhotane Crew at Thokoza Park, Soweto

Contrary to Le Grand Sapeurs and the Izikhotani our local DIY fashion heroes from Soweto, The Smartees, exist as a result of the inability to afford luxury fashion brands. The Smartees design signature is made up of European Colonialism and traditional African wear. Like Kyra-Moon’s collection references many different cultural backgrounds. The Durban University of Technology fashion design student presented a youthful interpretation of what one could refer to as local Harajuku Girls.

Figure 3.3

Figure 3.4

Figure1: Kyra-Moon’s collection references crochet.  Although no one is certain where its’ history began, it dates back before the 1800s, Pennie Packard (date unknown). The term “brogue” originated in the late 16^th century and the brogue shoes originate from Scotland and Ireland.  Stockings date back from the Baroque and Rococo eras where women in the 18^th century wore stockings imitating le marquis de Pompadour’s fashion sense. The Smartees describe their style as “Playful, spontaneous, edgy, colorful, and vintage-meets-new". Their looks are made up of clothes from other decades worn by their parents and grandparents, inspired by European clothing and African wear.

The phenomenon of sub-cultural groupings has driven the fashion industry for many decades and thus plays a major role in the social dimensions of our society.  Kim Gush’s range is inspired by sci-fi post-apocalyptic–ninja, sometimes referred to as Armageddon. This concept encompasses a fiction where a civilization is set free after worldwide conflict or destruction. This concept also depicts the end of the world as a result of great natural disasters.

Figure 3.5

Figure 3.6

Figure 3.7

Below is Kim’s interpretation of Post-Apocayptic-Ninjas… Enjoy

Figure 3.8

Figure 3.9

Figure 3.10

Palesa Selebogo